Although the molds for Part 1 and 2 were acceptable, I was still not happy. Why? Because I realized I didn't like how far forward her neck joint was on her head. Since I was going to fix her head and redo both molds, I figured I might as well do the faceplate line better. If I wanted, I could just use the first pair of silicone molds made, but I am just going to say they were a good test run.
This time Part 1 was the mold for the back of the head. This allowed me to make the proper lines around the ears. Below you can see the first part is done and the second part is ready to be poured.
Then it was time for Part 2 which would be her faceplate.
This is when another problem came up. Before I was mixing and pouring my silicone at 75F. Then I mixed and poured at 80F, which was the problem. The silicone mixture was not as viscous as I remembered it being previously. I could no longer do a steady thin stream of the silicone mixture. It was starting to pour lumpy with thin stream to fat stream to thin stream again. This resulted in the face having many bubbles since it couldn't flow over the head details smoothly.
So I chopped up the failed mold and this time had the room temperature at 75F. (Live and learn.) I used the chopped up silicone to fill in voids so I would not have to mix as much fresh silicone. I made sure the chopped silicone was not near the face details to ensure the head part gets coated well with fresh silicone. This should help me cut down some of my losses. (This stuff isn't cheap.)
So now her she has new Part 1 and Part 2 head molds.
Part 3 & 4
NOTES: I am using the Mold Making & Casting Pourable Starter Kit that I had purchased from DickBlick.com. This kit is made by Smooth-On. The silicone rubber that comes with the kit is OOMOO 30. The kit comes with an instructional booklet and a DVD with video on how-to make molds and to cast.